John's Fish and Chips - Sometimes you can't go home again

John's Fish and Chips - Etobicoke - Halibut

I grew up in Etobicoke.  Nearby by my home was this family run fish and chip restaurant.  We used to go all the time.  I used to love watching him, John, drop the batter coated pieces of fish into the oil and wonder at how the batter would magically puff up like a cripy pillow.  I loved their fresh french fries which were cooked in the 'over dark' way that I find fries are done here in Toronto.  They're very much unlike the bright-golden fries in the fish joints in Vancouver.  I wrote earlier I assumed that that was attributed to local tastes or older oil.  I think it might be a combination of both. 

Well, I recently moved back to Toronto and was hanging out with a cousin who, having moved back from Manhattan, will drive all the way to Scarborough from downtown for his fish and chips.  He grew up there and still hankers for the nostalgic tastes of childhood.  Having heard from my other cousin that he'd dragged there that the fish was ...'just eh'.  I threw down the gauntlet of a 'childhood fish and chip off'. His Scarberia greasy spoon against John's.

Well, I thought if I'm going to put my name on the line here, I should at least revisit.  I hadn't been back since, well, over a decade.  I mean there used to be a high school where about 4 condo towers and a hundred townhouses stand today.  So last week afterwork, I dragged D and my dad (as if dad needed dragging to fried food) to a bit of boxed nostalgia.  The three of us ordered Halibut and Chips with Coleslaw for takeout.

We rushed home as fast as we could.  My folks only live 10 minutes away.  Even so, Fish and Chips are very unforgiving about being toted about.  But we all made allowance for the slight wilting due to steam as you do.  That said, it was still a bit of a ... like finding Santa's wrapping paper in your parent's closet.  Yeah. 

The Fish was a nice big portion as I recalled.  My favourite place in Vancouver, Go Fish! have been culling back on their portions to a point that I fear when I go back someday with lil T, I'll receive a fish stick in my basket.  Anyhoo, the batter was crispy as I remembered but very very very oily and I realised alot of the 'wilting' was not steam from the carry out but from the oil.  As well, the batter itself was a bit bland and flavourless.  In the days of my youth, they may have relied on the fat frying flavour and now having retained the recipe but changed for healthier frying fare like canola and the like, have not added anything to the batter like beer or seasoning.  This meant that I was going to shamelessly abuse the amount of Tartar sauce.  I was quite palpably embarassed that they used prepackaged squeeze packs rather than homemade.  I think any self respecting fish restaurant should make their own Tartar sauce.  I've had brilliant Fish and Chips with homemade Tartar sauce out of a truck, Frying Scotsman, in Portland.  Sigh.  At least they also threw in some prepackaged squeeze packs of Malt Vinegar.  Mmmmmm.  Fries need vinegar!  The Fries were okay.  They were that typical dark fry that I mentioned and a bit soggy from the trip home but still crispy.  That said, I watched the cook in the back dump the fries in the oil from a bag.  Sigh.  They do not cut their own fries from Potatoes.  How hard is that.  Get a press attached to your wall and cut your fries as you go.  The other two places I mentioned, one out of a truck and the other out of a used railcar, both do.

Then there was the slaw.  D's words were 'bucket slaw'.  John correct me if I'm wrong but the slaw did indeed appear to be pre-made slaw.  The well soaked, machine cut, vinegary Cabbage and Carrot Coleslaw.  It was okay but again, as it wasn't a fast food joint and specialising if Fish, I expect fresh cut fries, homemade Tartar sauce and in house Slaw.  Sigh.  I fear that unless my cousin was grossly exaggerating about his Scarborough fish, I may lose this challenge.  I'll have to give it one more go before I totally walk away and eat in next time.  But today, I found Santa's Christmas wrapping behind dad's box of old shoes.

Ambiance: Suburban local joint - dark
Service: Lovely and warm
Cost: $$ - very reasonable
Family friendly: did not check the bathroom for change table but a few kids were colouring in the dining room.

John's Fish & Chips
(416) 231-3474
Etobicoke
5090 Dundas St W
Toronto, ON M9A

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Memphis Blues (Commercial) - Sooooo Meaty!

Memphis Blues Pulled Pork and Sausage Double Meat Sandwich

We like to buy our groceries on Commercial when we have the time and a big shop to do.  The prices are significantly better than Granville Island and more diverse.  That said, the quality (like on Granville Island) can be spotty.  Alot of the shops buy what I believe are 'seconds' from the supermarkets.  Some, I suspect, get 'fourths'.  Those are the ones to avoid like Triple A.  Blech.  But we tend to eat our veg right away and we know which shops get the better end of the range like Stanley's and  Santa Barbara.  We were picking up a few things at Santa Barbara when D noticed a sign for a Double Meat Special on the sandwich board of the Memphis Blues next door.

After sidestepping the drool on the sidewalk, D lured me in with promises of their fries which are yum.  Memphis Blues is an institution here in Vancouver.  When I first moved here, I met some new friends playing Ultimate Frisbee and they were obsessed with the place.  I had originally thought it was a guy thing.  Not so.  I even had to attend a work BBQ catered by Memphis Blues.  Alas, I only partook of the awesome Slaw, Fries and Cornbread.  There isn't much to the restaurant.  It looks like a cottage town shack.  The tables are wooden picnic tables and the sauces and brown paper towels are on all the tables already.  You serve yourself your beverage and the people are friendly.  I guess it's easy to be when everyone is happy to be there.

There isn't much more to the sandwich than the title would suggest.  It was a heaping portion of their famous, moist (as attested to by D, not I) Pulled Pork and joined by a large Smoked Sausage.  D thoroughly enjoyed it and after posting photos to my family, my sister O and dad wanted to hop on a plane.  Actually, I believe we were there on a Monday.  Monday is there all you can eat Rib day.  I asked D if it were worth it because it seemed like an awesome deal  to me but I don't partake.  D reckoned that it worked out to about a full back so not  really.  He happily had his double meat instead.

Memphis Blues Fries

The fries are fresh though a tad salty. 

Cost: $
Ambiance: Roadside shack
Baby friendly: didn't change T but area is tight for a stroller but easy for baby to hang out.

Memphis Blues Barbeque House (Commercial)

(604) 215-2599
1342 Commercial Dr
Vancouver, BC V5L
http://memphisbluesbbq.com

3-Shroom Swiss Souffle - Nutty and Luscious

Three Mushroom Swiss Cheese Souffle - Chanterelle, Porcini and Crimini

I was going to make this Souffle while my cousin H was visiting from Toronto but D wanted to take her to our fave noodle place, particularly since it was a place we could all eat out at without fuss about a baby.  It was probably a good idea because after a day of touring a round with a guest, I was pretty tired and souffles require alot of motion.  There's not alot of sitting or stewing or resting.  That said, it needn't be as dauting as they may seem so long as you're organised. They seem impressive and decadent for an Egg dish! Great for guests.

I used fresh Crimini Mushrooms but used dried Chanterelle and dried Porcini.  We always keep them in the house.  To reconsistute them, I used the Milk I'd use in the recipe so it was extra mushroomy.  I find dried Mushrooms alot stronger in flavour than some of the fresh ones.  We always serve our Souffle's with Truffle Oil on the table as an optional garnish because Eggs and Truffle Oil is gorgeous but D didn't use it at all, neither did I.  The flavour was amazing!

3-Shroom Swiss Souffle


5 Eggs, separated
1/4 t Lemon Juice or Cream of Tartar (if you have neither, don't worry and leave it out)
4 T Butter (separate 3 T and melt 1 T)
3 T Flour
1 1/4 c Milk
1 Shallot, finely minced
2 T Celery, finely minced (~1/2 stalk)
1/2 t Dried Mustard
3/4 t Cayenne
1/2 t Garlic Powder
1/4 t Nutmeg, freshly ground
150 g Ementhal or Swiss or Gruyere Cheese, grated
50 g Parmesan, freshly grated
5 Crimini Mushroom, chopped
1 1/2 T Dried Chanterelles
1 t Salt
1/4 c Dried Porcini

Melt 1 T of Butter, soft enough to spread. I use a silicon brush but you can use some wax paper. Thoroughly butter your souffle dish and place it in the fridge.

Take the Eggs out and leave them on the counter during the next sequence of directions. It is better to have them at room temperature and most commercial Eggs are pasturiesed anyhoo.

Heat the milk in a large measuring cup or medium bowl for 1 min in the microwave. Hot but not boiling. Add the Chanterelles and the Porcini. You may want to break some of the larger Porcini into smaller pieces. Let them soak for 15 minutes. Grate the Cheese and set aside in a bowl.

Preheat the oven to 400F

Take the souffle dish out and leave it out on the counter.

Separate your Eggs. Sequester each White before adding them to the mixing bowl of you stand mixer. Place the Yolks in a small bowl. Add the Lemon Juice to the Whites. Leave them. The reason I say if you do not have Lemon Juice or Cream of Tartar that you can leave it out is because it is debatable that it does what is claimed.  Lots of people believe that the added acidity help the foam form.  Do note, that Cream of Tartar is a white powder that is derived from wine barrels.  It is not a sauce for fish.

In a medium sauce pan melt the 3 T Butter on medium. Drain the Mushrooms and kep the Milk. Add the Shallot, Celery and Spices (not the Salt). Sauté for 2 minutes until softened. Add the Mushrooms and stir for 1 min. Sprinkle the Flour over the Veg while switching to a small/medium whisk. Cook the Flour by stirring constantly for 1-2 minutes. Slowly add the Milk whisking constantly. Bring to a boil then immediately turn the heat down to low. It should be quite thick like cake batter.

Add the Yolks to the pot one at a time whisking constantly to prevent scrambling. Wait until completely absorbed plus 30 s then add the next. When all the Yolks are in remove the sauce pan from the heat.

Switch to a spoon if you want. Add the Cheese in handfuls to the pot while stirring. Yes you are getting a workout. Add the Salt and taste. Adjust the seasoning as needed. When all the Cheese is in set aside to cool.

Turn your stand mixer on high and whisk your Whites until you have Stiff peaks. Stable but not dry. Take a large rubber spatula take 1/4 of the Whites and mix into the pot vigorously ensuring to scrape the bottom. Don't worry about deflating the foam. You're just lightening up the sauce now.

Add the contents of the pot into the Whites. Gently start folding the mixture together by slicing down the middle and scooping across the bottom and up the side. Turn the bowl a quarter turn. You should only need to fold maybe tn times. You don't need the mixture to be perfectly consistent and you don't want to completely deflate the foam.

Pour the mixture into the Souffle dish. Place the dish in the oven and turn the oven down to 375. Bake at the bottom level for 40 minutes. Do not open the door at all for at least 25 minutes no matter how tempting. You can check it at 30 minutes if you want but 40 has worked for me a few times.

It should be puffed above the rim and browned.  If it is browing too fast, you can lightly place a piece of foil on  top but do not do this until the 25 minute mark where the foam is stable.

mmmmmm